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Cherie was going to take her dog to the vet so was leaving at about the same time we planned on going and offered us a lift off the island. C was very eager to not have to repeat the experience from the day before and so we threw the bikes on the rack she had got from a yard sale Riding out we found out that the drivers weren’t that much nicer to those in cars than on bicycles which at least made it less a case of GET ON THE SIDEWALK and more a case of people who are terrible drivers, maybe because they’re on holiday and so have forgotten how to drive.

We got out at a gas station and said our goodbyes. C must have missed her as she spent the rest of the day trying out the New Jersey accent she had picked up from Cherie which was … interesting. As we had been driven about 15-20 miles it meant we had a fairly short ride. It turned out to be very pleasant as we took Cherie’s advice and went down some pretty roads on the way to Walterboro. I decided to try out using my Kindle while cycling to check emails and found it to be not too bad having had lots of practice riding one handed SMSing before.

We were getting close to Walterboro and saw a motorcyclist coming towards us who waved. I thought nothing of it as it tends to happen, probably a bit of 2 wheel love. This motorcyclist however was different as he must have u-turned behind us as he overtook us and pulled up in front of us. I was a little confused and stopped my iPod. All became clear when his helmet came off and he introduced himself as Charles, our host for the evening. He was just on the way to a garage to get a service and had seen us so was saying hello and letting us know he’d be home in a few hours. We waved goodbye and continued.

We encountered our first bit of rain of the trip, very light spitting that was barely noticeable, in the last 20 minutes of riding. After getting to his house however the heavens opened and it turned out we had another lucky escape. For the next couple of hours, while we were sat comfortably in his house, there was a huge storm which must have been very close as the thunder and lightning was hitting almost simultaneously.

Charles came back with his girlfriend Sabrina and we went out for a true southern dinner of shrimp + grits. He then took us for a walk around the cute art deco downtown of Walterboro where we passed lots of antique shops on our way to get some hushpuppies before heading back to his. I’d only ever heard of the shoe, but in the south they’re a staple. Wikipedia can give you more detail than I know but they were pretty good while we sat round talking the night away.

Charles is really well educated about health and alternative medicines. He had moved to Walterboro for his documentary about healing where he had a very good contact, possibly with a reiki master. He was talking about living without health insurance and his attitude to the growing number of health issues people face that he puts down to diet and lifestyle which was eye opening. His free spirited disposition also extended to the cockroaches that were inevitable in a house as old as his in Walterboro. There were a few that freaked both Sabrina and C and he was wanting to live in harmony with them unless they happened to run across him while he was asleep.

The night ended with some outstandingly rich chocolate cake. We had about 1/3 of the slice we were given and decided to save the rest because our blood sugar levels were already ridiculous. Before hitting the sack I borrowed Charles’ clippers and with a bit of help from C sorted my hair out.

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