The prettiness of Granada was capped with the look back on it with the snowcapped Sierra Nevadas looking rather majestic behind it which accompanied me the whole way to Loja. I was heading there next as there was another Warmshowers host, John, and I was eager to meet more. He’s an English teacher, with a lot of international experience, the most random being Sudan. A pleasure to hang out with and chat while he fixed his scooter and we sipped down cups of milky tea in pint glasses.
Even though my goal was to get to Algeciras, to take the ferry to Morocco, the coastal route didn’t appeal in the slightest. I haven’t been there before, but in my mind it’s just a long stretch similar to the one between Cancun and Playa del Carmen. A massively developed ex-pat community full of Brits and Germans in particular looking for the sun. I’ve got no problem with that, but in my mind it would make for less than interesting riding, lots of traffic and issues finding
After the madness of Algeria, it was quite amazing to be in Spain. Walking from the ferry, where my host Carlos met me, I went past people hanging around outside even though it was already dark. There were young people drinking in public, and teenager guys hitting on teenage girls. All things that I’d normally take for normal, but definitely stood out after the Algerian experience. The other fantastic thing was the regular western toilet, rather than the Algerian one which I never photographed
After refusing to buy the ticket to Alicante, I was now needing to get a ticket to Almería. Ferries go there from Oran every Monday, which being a Thursday would have meant waiting for 5 days, or riding 180km to Ghazaouet where they left on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Not wanting to impose on my host by staying longer in Oran it was on to Ghazaouet. There was apparently an auberge 70km away in Ain Temouchent so after nipping into town to buy my ticket, I was on my way
A day when I go crazy at the gendarmerie.
I’d told the police that I’d be ready at 8am, and this was agreed. I hung around for a while, waiting, and was told to wait a bit longer, went to a nearby café and to pick up some biscuits, came back, wait more. At 9:30 I was losing my patience, but was told that in 10 minutes they’d definitely be ready. 9:40 comes, no-one is there, but I tell them I’m leaving as they’d told me they would be ready by then. Inside 2 minutes