True to her word, the owner was back at 4am, but I managed to sleep until just before 5am, when we had to pack up as the group of workers from the night before came back for breakfast. I was on the road by 5:30, with the sun already up, and made my way to the next town for breakfast. There’s an old colonial bridge in the town, and I guess that makes people think it’s touristic, so the restaurants all charged silly prices for food. Thankfully, the ladies selling from their little stands
Another day, another climb. This time a mere 40km up, and the same down the other side, and after being offered 3 lifts the day before, I did it all by myself! The rain is coming, and I saw plenty of clouds, but thanks to dumb luck I managed to avoid them all. At the top of the climb, around 4000m, I did however see the results of an earlier hailstorm that I’m definitely glad to have avoided. Hail is one of the times when I really wish I wore a helmet on my bike, because otherwise it’s
The three iconic places in Peru are Lake Titicaca, Machu Picchu and the Nazca Lines. In Cusco, as well as being offered massages and shiny shoes at every corner, there are always people trying to sell you a tour to Machu Picchu (MP). Those with ridiculous amounts of money can take the Hiram Bingham train, named after the American who is credited with discovering MP, at a mere $400 per person each way for the 3 hour journey.
Immediately upon getting on the bike it was there again, the relentless beep of cars. They were free to drive again, and seemed to be trying to make up for the day before. Beeping at everyone, and no one. Even as we were riding outside of town, on our way back to the lakeside, every people carrier that went past beeped us. It might have been meant in kindness, a show of support, but it just made me wish that cars were banned.
We spent a fair chunk of the day riding along the lake. I’d read
From Pulacayo it was a further 20-30 minute climb, which would have been impossible the night before, and then a long downhill to Uyuni. Unfortunately, there was some serious amount of gusting during the downhill into Uyuni and I was getting blown from one shoulder right across the right to the other. Thankfully, the lack of traffic from the previous days was still evident and there were no problems – other than my frustration.
HJ had been to Uyuni twice before, and both times stayed in the